Growing tomatoes has always been my favorite vegetable and eat. I have had success with other standard vegetables like cucumbers, peppers, tomatoes, cauliflower, etc., but my specialty has been over the years.
I start my seeds in about 5-6 weeks before last expected frost date. I use a commercially available starting flat that 72 plants will. I prefer the Whopper Tomato Plant Park (TM) Enhanced Cr VFFNT HybridPark Seed Co. These can be purchased, is a big, lush, disease-resistant tomatoes to grow, I saw more than 3 kg. +. These !!!!! for a BLT impressive, like a slice of one of these beauties hanging from the toast of at least one inch or more all the way
The mixture of compost, I use equal parts good loam and vermiculite, light enough that the soil does, so the seeds do not germinate and will have difficulty growing. So you sayYou are right now, WOW, 72 tomato plants, I do not need very well so ... View from 72 that you start to develop some are not, for whatever reason, and if they are planted, some die, the birds get some, get the animals and get some yes, some of the bugs, no matter how hard you try to keep them out . So from that 72 plants, you might end up only with the right number at the end of your garden. Of course it is possible to conclude with 72very healthy, intact, disease or insects, tomato plants, as has happened to me a season, then you can eat tomatoes more than we ever sell or give away! But this is history as a whole it 'is!
Tomatoes are grown in all soils, the rocky, hard packed clay loam dark loose so he could push the arm elbow deep into the ground without any difficulty. And 'my experience that almost all the land with the majority requires only minor work wasChanges.
If you need to add amendments to the soil to fix it, I recommend a mixture of sawdust and sand in old age anyway. The sand can be obtained from the local concrete company for a small fee in bulk, or you can buy in bags from your local hardware store. A note on the sawdust, DO NOT use fresh sawdust, as this release will be too hot, because of nitrogen during decomposition. Plants placed in the sawdust, and the mixture of sand and earth are tooInvitation to withstand the high concentration of nitrogen.
If fresh sawdust all you can get, is stacked in a corner of your garden, and let age for a new season.
Your local sawmill, if you have one nearby, should have a good supply of old sawdust on hand that can be loaded and towed free of charge. If you can not have a sawmill and any kind of assembly plant nearby, such as the Ames Co., which manufactures wooden handles, etc. you with your localCounty extension agent and he or she can tell you where to buy the sawdust. Speaking of a county extension agent if you intend to take to consult with the officials, some soil samples from different places in your garden and ask that they be tested for proper nutrients. This is a free service provided by some countries, while others may charge a small fee, regardless, you can have the results back in a few days.
If you are the sawdust and sand, evenly distributedParts of your garden to a depth of about a centimeter or more, depending on the type of soil has reached. Too much and the soil is too long and drain the water too quickly, not enough and the sun bake in a ortstein during the dog days of summer.
Work this mixture into your soil as deeply as possible with your drill or spading the old way, with a fork or shovel Once this mixture is worked properly then it's time to consider whatType of fertilizer is needed.
Armed with the results of soil analysis, that is a good indication of what type of fertilizer is best for your garden. Known in many cases a good all-purpose fertilizer such as 10-10-10 or triple 10 will do the job well. The results of soil tests indicate the additional features of the necessary nutrients, and the percentage of alerts.
After completing fertilization, give your garden a moderate soakingwith sprinkler or link to dissolve and distribute the fertilizer through the soil.
When the tomatoes begin to fix something that I have a unique approach, I dig the planting hole, approximately 10-12 cm deep with an auger earth, which helps determine the spacing of each plant (2-2 ½ feet apart, or about half the length of your earth auger handle) I use the drill ground for several reasons:
1. Its much easier on yourback, you do not have to bend or kneel to dig the hole.
2. The hole larger and deeper means that more of the tomato plant itself can be placed deep into the soil and the plants can be more effectively put into play the stronger the plant will be, because each piece is subject to the plan, Metro and development in the root system, so that the roots will be deeper and stronger from the outset.
3. Recovery loose in the hole allows the development of rootTo maintain the system, a solid grip.
After obtaining all the holes are placed at intervals, and digging, go back and sprinkle a little 'Miracle-Gro bottom of each hole, then add a small amount of water in the hole. Remove and set your house plants as deeply as possible into the hole. We recommend no more than 1 to 2 inches of tomato on the ground. Yes, it will take longer for your tomatoes to produce them in relation to recruitment, they found that at the same depthWere sown flat, but most are plants and plants that are almost never have the water because at this depth are the humidity is fairly constant, unless it is a very dry summer. Believe me, if you set the tomatoes are deep throughout the apartment, shall be paid at least every other day.?
The next thing we face is the method used to control the plant illegal. Some people like to place straw down around the tomato plants and to their proliferationon the ground. I think this opens the door for pest problems, such as the tomato hornworm. The method I recommend is to do with welded steel wire tomato cage. The wire can be purchased in most hardware or do-it-yourself store. The wire is large 6 "openings that are easily pass if it came with a hand harvest time. The cable is about 6 m high, which makes it a very sturdy cage for the biggest tomato plant. To count cages for sevenSquares and then cut with a blowtorch or a pair of pliers studio, cut the bottom of the seventh, which will be six 6 "spikes, which make the cage as stable as a rock when pushed to the ground. I put my cage around the plants once the plants into the ground. As soon as the cages will last for years and years.
Our final concern is pests and diseases, in particular the tomato hornworm end rot and blossom. Tomatohornworm is ugly little creature that surround and chew through your plant just below the ground. To avoid this, insert a large nail into the ground next to each tomato plant. Thus, the hornworm will prevent the environment of plants and food through the base.
When you reach the end of your tomatoes begin to rot, to see how they grow, then it is surely a case of blossom end rot, which can be easily stopped from overtaking your entire crop of tomatoes. Go to yourPharmacy and get some potassium chloride, then place two tablespoons full in a garden sprayer and fill with water, shake to mix well then spray your plants. Do this weekly until the end does not appear in the new red.
If you can follow these instructions and a little 'TLC are some of the largest and best-tasting tomatoes you keep asking.
Will surely be the envy of the neighborhood!